The laminate floors in our laundry room and bathrooms I haaaaaaaaaaate. And when there is a will there is a way! Have you seen now far the peel and stick tile game has come!?
We all want things done on the cheap, let’ be serious, but cheap isn’t always the answer. For this home, going all the way to real tile is not worth the investment to us, but I also didn’t want the cheap-o stuff either. I am still quality over quantity.
Peel and stick tile now exists in a heavy duty and groutable options. I’ve been seeking this out for quite some time, read lots of instruction manuals and read review on review. The laundry room was a great space to start in. First of all, while I had to remove the washer and dryer, they also weren’t the toilet and I already wanted to repaint the laundry room. With no windows I think darker colors are better. White with no windows tends to look dingy and the dark will pop well with the white appliances. So laundry room was the starting point 🙌🏽
My local Menards was having a sale, so I snagged my tiles here. I chose Armstrong Flooring – Marble Mist and Great Divide for our Laundry room to create the classic checked look.
I removed everything from the floor of the laundry room and got the painting done first. While the paint was drying I removed the shoe moulding from around the base of the room. This is the rounded piece that attached to your floor trim. The shoe moulding needs to be removed to place the tiles so that it all buts up against the wall perfectly, but also because of the slight elevation you are adding with the tile. To remove the quarter round, I used this painters tool to make a cut in the existing caulk, then used a hammer to insert this multi use tool between the baseboard and shoe moulding. Then, slowly and carefully, I moved the tool down the line to remove the quarter round little by little. (I was reusing my quarter round, so I wanted to be extra careful not to damage or break a piece).
After the quarter round was removed, I did a dry run with the tiles. I wanted to see how the layout would work and if I needed to adjust my starting point or my starting layout to make the pattern visually what I wanted but also to make life easier with the cuts that would be needed on the edge tiles.
Once I felt confident in my layout and starting point, it was go time!
While these tiles are peel and stick, meaning they have a sticky back, I wanted to double down on the stick, so I added this adhesive to the back of each tile for extra grab. I also wanted the skinniest grout lines so I chose the 1/16 spacers.
On repeat that means…
– Remove backing of tile
– Add adhesive to back
– Place in appropriate space
– Add spacers
– Put tile into space making sure its pushed up against spacers on all sides
– Place weights for added assistance on adhesion
Depending on the size of your space, this will obviously repeat more or less as needed.
When it came to the edges, you obviously have to cut to fit. What I found to work the best was to use the peel off backing to measuring. To do that I did the following:
– Trim off excess to have backing fit to tile perfectly
– Remove backing from tile
– Place backing in space needed to fill with side that attaches to the tile face up (you don’t want to cut the opposite of what you would like)
– Fold paper to line needed
– Reissue the backing paper to the tile
– Use ruler/level/whatever fits your fancy to align along folded line
– Use knife to cut along line on back of tile (took about 5 pressured swipes of the knife) while resting on cutting board or acceptable surface
– Snap off cut area
– Dry fit to make sure the fit is appropriate
– Repeat steps listed above
This part takes patience and persistence. Give yourself some grace and maybe some knee pads 😂
Once each tile is placed and settled, you can begin the grouting process. I chose a very light colored grout. You can buy in a variety of different brands and appliqués, so whatever works for you is great. You will need your grout, a float, a bucket of water and a grout sponge. To apply grout, you apply in small areas at a time. Apply in the opposite direction of your gaps to fill and continue to collect the excess. Once satisfied with the filling, you will use the grout sponge to wipe up the excess and then repeat. When complete, let your grout sit for 24 hours. You can then wipe the floors again with water and your sponge if you feel as though a fog is still present on your tiles.
Once the grout has settled, you can begin to reassemble. Add your shoe molding back in with a brad nailer and caulk the top gap between the shoe molding and the existing base board. Caulk can be sticky and will attract dust, so I advise painting over the caulk to avoid that down the road.
What an impact for such a small price tag. Our laundry room is approximately 8′ 9″ x 6′ space that includes the closet space. We already had the Dewalt Brad Nailer, Purdy Painters Tool, nails, knife, caulk and adhesive, so those you could say were zero cost to us. The break down of further price is…
Tile – $61.23
Spacers – $2.87
Grout – $24.98
Grout Sponge – $1.89
Grout Float – $5.49
There was enough grout left over for maaaaaany more projects, but a total of $96.46 (and my own blood, sweat and tears) is practically mind blowing am I right!?
I don’t think I could have dreamed of a better finish. I LOVE IT! And for the price I think I doubly love it! The project takes work and patience and a slight toll on your body, but it was oh so worth it. Have you tried a similar project!? I would love to hear!